Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Briks and other stuff at Epices du traiteur

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Briks and other stuff at Epices du traiteur

Alan Divack | Dec 29, 1998 09:46 PM

We tried Epices du traiteur (103 w 70th) the other
night, and it was surprisingly good. It is a French
and Tunisian restaurant. French dishes, pastas, and
some North AFrican stuff as well. The best part of the
meal was the brik appetizer. This is a Tunisian fried
pastry, filled with egg, tuna, potato and capers. The
egg white was set, but the yold was still runny. Most
recipes that I have seen for briks call for spring roll
skins or phyllo as a substitute for the traditional
pastry, but this wrapper didn't seem to be either -- it
was fragile and delicate rather than hard and brittle.
It was worth going there for this dish alone.

The rest of the meal was good too. I had a mixed
grill, with excellent grilled rib lamb chops and good
merguez (nicely spicy, but the texture was a little
sawdusty like lower quality chorizo), served with a
wonderful and spicy pureeed grilled veggie salad. My
wife had chicken couscous, which was OK but nothing to
write home about -- often the case with restauarant
couscous.

The price was reasonable as well -- $45, including one
glass of wine but not dessert. Our waitress, however,
was fairly clueless.

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