Restaurants & Bars 2

Bouchon, Yountville

Melanie Wong | Apr 3, 2003 03:52 AM

Tuesday I stopped for a quick dinner at Bouchon to wait out traffic before returning the City. This was my first time here, and I liked how much the interior reminded me of the bouchons in Lyon.

The amusee was a delicious white bean spread flavored with basil, capers and olive oil to spread on croutons. The epine by Della Fattoria was wonderful with a pebbly crust and rustic texture, especially served warm.

The frites ($3.75) were good, crisp and golden, of medium size with some of the peel left on and adequately salted. Even for as many as I consumed as a single diner, I hardly made a dent in the pile, not dipping below the rim of the cone. Definitely a serving size to share with a friend or two! I was asked if I wanted ketchup or mayonnaise, and I opted for both. My server suggested that I try the spicy Dijon mustard in the little pot on the table. I mixed some of it with the mayo to make a French-style frites sauce.

The frisee salad with poached egg and lardons ($9.75) was a let down. The egg yolk was suitably runny and pan de mie was perfectly toasted. I liked the garnish of snipped chives and the fresh tarragon and chervil mixed with the greens. However, the lardons were cut a little too small, making them too salty and hard. The vinaigrette wasn’t that flavorful and could have used more acidity to lift the heaviness of this dish. The salad was stingy on frisee for volume and to balance the quantity of lardons. This serving size did not mimic Lyon’s bouchons.

I had a glass of Clos de la Truffiere Cab/Syrah ($8) that was a special pour of the day, listed on the blackboard over the bar. None of the wines by the glass on the printed wine list held any appeal. This wine turned out to be lacking in focus and charm itself

Needing to be on my way, I skipped cheese and dessert. The cheese list did offer several selections and can be ordered singly or as a trio of tastes for under $10.

From this limited sampling at a tab of $27, I’m not in hurry to return, especially with Bistro Jeanty nearby or Café Lucy a few miles away. Yet it’s worth mention as one of the few places in the Valley that keeps late hours. Perhaps a cheese plate and a glass of wine when you need a midnight snack would be the best bet.

Bouchon Restaurant
6534 Washington St.
Yountville
707-944-8037
Lunch and dinner
7 days from 11:30am to 12:30am
Bar open until 1:00am

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