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bklyn now has a sudanese restaurant, and it's excellent

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bklyn now has a sudanese restaurant, and it's excellent

andy n | Aug 7, 2001 01:48 AM

the place is called Khartoum, at 1197 fulton, near bedford (franklin av. stop on the A/C), opened last week. the sudanese part of the menu is pretty small (the rest appears to be standard middle-eastern), but the guy said he planned to expand it and will start offering a daily sudanese special.

i had 3 vegetable things, all very good.

stewed okra in a non-overwhelming tomato sauce (he also does it as a lamb sauce) was perfect.

fava beans with tomatoes and olive oil and cumin-dusted feta cheese, served hot, was great, surprisingly sweet.

then there was moulokhia (MOO-lo-HEE-ah), "green leaves grown along the Nile, finely chopped, cooked in a very thick meat and tomato sauce." i ordered it without the meat, and was served something that looked and tasted like semi-pureed spinach sauteed in mild garlic and drenched in okra slime. actually, it was slimier than the slimiest okra. i was almost embarrassed to eat it. but it tasted wonderful.

i asked for hot sauce and he brought out a bowl of something kind of tan and vinegary and garlicky (and hot), very good. even the rice (basmati) was exceptionally nutty and flavorful, not sure why.

some of the old heads at the next table were drinking glasses of a hot milky substance, so i asked to try it. the guy showed me a wheatlike grain, called ?halba?, and explained that the grain is cooked in milk, then the grain is discarded and you drink the milk. it was pleasant enough, the grain added a hard-to-detect nuttiness, but very thick. it seemed like it would be really good on a cold day in the sudan, if they have those.

for carnivores, dishes include lamb liver grilled and served with lentils and various kebab type things. also spiced broiled lamb, chicken breast "marinated in a special sauce w/green peppers".

the place is clean and well lighted. plastic covered lacy tablecloths. rah rah. yum.

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