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Bistro K review

AndrewS | Sep 22, 2004 01:23 AM

I went to Bistro K the other night with my gf and another couple. Here follows a brief review.

Appetizers-
Sauteed foi gras w/ green apple and sea eel- the second time my gf has had this. She was as happy as the first time, and my appreciation of it grew on my second tasting. It's an impressive contrast between the sweet crunch of the apple, the rich smoothness of the foi gras, and the firm smokey sweetness of the eel.
Tourchon of foi gras- cold foi gras with toast points. Nothing fancy, no embellishments because there don't need to be. This is perfection and doesn't need to be dressed up.
Gratin of artichokes- I believe this was with goat cheese, and, if memory serves me, a hit of tarragon. This was spectacular, and went very well with the Shiraz we brought.
The fourth appetizer was blue shrimp- the specifics, I've forgotten. Good, but not memorable.

Main courses-
Veal kidneys and sweetbreads- nicely done, and great to see on a menu. A bit overcooked for my gf's taste, and I'd tend to agree. They were in some jus reduction with a nice rich tast.
Pork cheeks- intensely porky braised meat. I was extremely happy with this dish, a rich, deep pork flavor with an intensity of 'porkiness' reminiscent of a long barbecued pork shoulder which has acted as a kind of pork condenser.
Lamb tian- flavorful tasty lamb, again, a bit overcooked past falling apart and into mushy, but still quite good.
Monkfish with veal foot accompaniment- couldn't figure out where the veal came into the equation, but an *extremely* nice handling of the fish. The specifics escape me, having just had a bite, but I was struck by the extent to which the 'poor man's lobster' was done justice.

Dessert-
Apple tartin with apricot sauce- good
Pineapple tartin with curry ice cream- excellent and a hit with everyone. Curry ice cream is an idea whose time has come, and this, with the pineapple, hits so many primal flavor memories in a different combination, that it really stands out.
A dense chocolate ganache with a lace cookie, heavily spiced- excellent to the point it requires another sampling before I can really plum it's depths.

All in all, a wonderful meal in a charming and unpretentious setting. The tab for the four of us, with tip, was $200, a bargain, given the creativity and quality of the food. They're still waiting on their spirits license, so no corkage fee for the moment.

Take care,

Andrew

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