Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Bar Room at The Modern

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Restaurants & Bars 6

Bar Room at The Modern

DKH | May 10, 2006 03:07 PM

How many synonyms are there for mediocre? Let’s see if we can use all of them in this review, as not to be repetitive. Well the service competent if a bit absent and aloof, in a word, middling. The gin and tonic my friend ordered was well mixed but not inspiring. The steak tartar was seasoned with an interesting asian twist yet lacked the balance between rich and tangy that is the essence of this dish, some would call it undistinguished. The wild mushroom soup was very mushroomy but somewhat watery and lacking in complexity i.e. unremarkable. The duck confit was flavored well with crispy skin but inexcusably dry, making it just ordinary. Now let’s discuss the things that were not just mediocre, those things that rose above (and fell short of) inoffensive. The tarte flambé was great, Smokey, creamy and cheesy while still being thin and light. The design of the restaurant is very stylish and bold. The most impressive thing was the bathroom which deserves to be a permanent installation in the moma. The seared crusted tuna was cold in the center and tasted like it had been rolled in oddly seasoned corn flakes. This was gross. The extensive red wine list was 7 bottles long and covered all price ranges between 45 and 70 dollars. Unfortunately they were out of the first bottle we tried to order and had to go with a different if no less profit-laden option. It was satisfactory but overpriced. I called and they say that they now offer the whole dining room’s wine list, which is “pages and pages”. If you were to drop in for the 12 dollar tarte flambé and an equally priced cocktail after a visit to the museum or even just while in the neighborhood it would be a great snack stop. Just don’t forget to visit the bathroom.

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