Restaurants & Bars

Greater Boston Area

Anise, Kendall Sq., Cambridge


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Restaurants & Bars Greater Boston Area

Anise, Kendall Sq., Cambridge

limster | | Dec 16, 2006 05:11 AM

Crisp bite to the slices of lotus root with a touch of acid and quite a bit of sweetness.

Wild ferns with cilantro were ordinary, the flavours mostly chilli and sesame oil, without much complexity.

Tofu flower comes across as rather coarse, unlike the delicate silk that characterizes this Sichuan dish. Flavour of the sauce was basic, without the sound and fury that typifies Sichuan cooking.

Dumpling were outstanding, just the right resilience in the skin. A sauce nicely balanced between a dark sticky sweetness and a catch of spice.

A spicy numbing chicken is mild and stringy, the sichuan peppercorn hardly evident.

The 8 treasure tea is decent, but lacks the compositional qualities of more serious versions, this one mainly giving off chrysanthemum along with the sweetness from rock sugar and a bit of fruit from the dates and wolfberries.

Quite a few deficits in the flavour and technique, with little of the intricate spicing or fine knifework that one might expect from exemplars of Sichuan cooking. If this experience was typical, I would vastly prefer the more masterly cooking at Sichuan Gourmet.