Restaurants & Bars

Outer Boroughs

Altadonna on Horace Harding

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Restaurants & Bars

Altadonna on Horace Harding

Erica Marcus | Feb 11, 2005 11:05 AM

Last week I had dinner at Altadonna on Horace Harding Blvd in Little Neck. (It's in the same strip mall as the Persian Tea Room.)

The decor was tacky, the service was weak (they said two guys had called in sick), the bread was mediocre, the presentation was dated and the wine glasses were those overly concave ones that require you to put your whole face inside.

HOWEVER, the food was great. I started with two healthy grilled octopi that were fresh and succulent. For some reason they had been plopped on a bed of mesclun but whatever. My friend had an equally good octopus salad.

My entree was among the best veal preparations I've ever had, a spiedini done in a very Sicilian manner: scallopini of veal rolled around a pine nut and raisin filling, the resultant packages then breaded, and threaded onto skewers that were punctuated with slices of onion and oranges. Then grilled. They were so juicy and tasty and wonderful. Unaccountably plopped on a bed of mesclun.

Pal had a goodly slab of swordfish, also breaded and grilled. Perfection.

Altadonna used to be in Mineola and before that in Ozone Park. From what I gather, "style" has never been its strong suit. But there appears to be some really superlative Sicilian cuisine embedded in this menu. I am headed back soon to sample the pasta con sarde.

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