TWIST - http://endoedibles.com/?p=19158
Suffice it to say that I’m a known entity at Twist and with my predilections to Chef Ryuki’s interpretation of Pierre Gagnaire’s cuisine well known a meal on Saturday night would prove just as thrilling as those prior, a showering of plates with mostly stellar service lasting over four hours in the butterfly adorned Spring dining room. With Gagnaire himself present in the kitchen – as well as the dining room, bar, and even lobby – tending to details both small and large it was to an array of innovative canapés plus a quintet of breads with butters from Isigny and Echire that we began and moving next through six courses of meticulous sourcing and style rare would be a lull, a full emersion in the kitchen’s stream of consciousness with a leisurely flowing pace. Opting for one tasting and courses a la carte to match ‘Spring’ began with flavors smacking of the season and although mushrooms both here and later were slightly over-seasoned everything else showed fresh and vibrant, a concept that carried right along to the course that followed – a flood of foie gras comprising seared, salad, torchon, terrine, and even ice cream. Transitioning to ‘surf n’ turf’ in an eight plate third course of butter poached lobster juxtaposing aggressively peppered beef before progressing to five cheeses novel to even the experienced it was at last in two separate courses that sweets arrived and with Gagnaire himself overseeing the pastry preparation that evening every item arrived with a flourish; a garnish here or an extra plate there to cap another stunning meal.