Friday night dinner @ Septime. Lovely little space, more informal than I expected. Young, very friendly service. Dinner was a 6-course tasting of "Printemps." All the dishes were prepared impeccably, and the ingredients were very fresh: Salad with grapefruit, dill and feta cheese; soup with fresh greens and duck heart/fois gras; monkfish with leeks; a veal dish; mint granita; and an ice cream w/ fresh strawberries. At the end of the meal I was underwhelmed. Each individual dish was excellently prepared (I don't care for monkfish, but it was perfectly cooked), but the whole was truly less than the sum of its parts. E 135 for two, with bottled water and a glass of wine. The meal was "precious," but I wouldn't rush to return.
Sat. morning: Eclalrs @ Genie d'Eclair. Delicious toppings and fillings, but we found the pastry to be a little mushy. But of course they had been sitting out for some time.
Sat. dinner @ Ober Sale, the hit of the trip. Fabulous waiter, and every dish was great. My wife had scallops; cod with a black pasta; and a layered chocolate mousse (with pears). I had a "soup" of coddled egg and fois gras; guinea hen; and a sort of salted creme caramel. This meal had "soul," and the level of cooking was great. E 80 with bottled water and a glass of wine. We were early (7:30) but by the time we left (9:30), there were only two other couples eating there on a Saturday night? This place should be packed. I would return here in a heartbeat.
Sunday we were still full. We had lunch @ Cafe de Musees, and just had entrees: smoked salmon for me, and a salade with mushrooms and warm chevre for my wife. Portions were enormous. I couldn't finish my dish. Food was very good, and it felt like an old-time bistro. Dinner was @ the apartment. We had shopped in the morning at Marche Richard Lenoir, and in retrospect we could have just noshed there for lunch.
Monday we had a picnic in the park de Gagnoires (I'm butchering the spelling), and then strolling through the city we came across Pierre Herme macarons. I'd never had macarons before. I'm sure there's whole threads as to who makes the best macarons in Paris. Well, as a macaron newbie, the bar was set pretty high. We tried the olive oil w/ vanilla; and the cassis. Both were winners! E2 per macaron.
We cancelled our reservations at Le 122, and went instead to Le Mary Celeste for Monday dinner. Great drinks; great food. Fun vibe; great music on the mix tape. My wife had tacos with pork shoulder in a sweet/spicy sauce); I had a ragout of poulet et canard. Absolutely delicious. Exceeded our expectations! We would return in a flash. E 33 for two plats and two drinks. Only downside? The two young American women who live in Paris who we were seated next to -- loud and inane. They lived up to every bad stereotype!
And then it was off to the airport where we found the Laduree [?] kiosk for, yes, two last macarons!!