Half-Genius Fancy Sandwiches at ink.sack

Television cooking celebrity Michael Voltaggio is set to open his new Los Angeles restaurant, Ink, in September. But he's already opened the sandwich joint annex, ink.sack. It's really a tiny thing—just a bit of counter space. Most people are grabbing their sandwiches to go. "I have to say that the menu board certainly adds to the excitement," says jacqueline f. "Which ones (limit four per person) will I choose? There's something for everyone. Unless you're a vegetarian.... These diminutive sandwiches are meat-centric all the way."

The sandwiches are small, but the fillings are rich and delectable, says jacqueline f. One of the best choices: the CLT, with creamy chicken-liver mousse, curried chicken skin, and perfect slices of juicy summer tomatoes.

Banh mi are also outstanding, with tender pork cheek and pickled vegetables. "But the knockout on this sandwich was the inclusion of the crispy. Very clever idea, indeed," says jacqueline f. "Even with the greasy chicharrones, this sandwich still feels fresh thanks to the vinegary pickled vegetables and cilantro."

The big problem: the bread, which is "completely unspectacular and really just a package for delivering Voltaggio's scrumptious fillings to your mouth," says jacqueline f. It's a little Subway-esque. It may not detract from the experience, but it certainly doesn't add. "I can't believe they are baking it themselves, so they ought to simply change purveyors."

There are also spectacular house-made potato chips: paper thin, with glorious crackle and intense vinegar.

ink.sack [West Hollywood]
8360 Melrose Avenue #107, Los Angeles
No phone available

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