African Rarities at New Ivoire

For a rare taste of the food of Ivory Coast, just follow that taxi. From the brief, rotating menu at New Ivoire, a 24/7 cabdriver hangout in East Harlem, versicle chose sauce feuille patate, a beef stew with sweet potato leaves and a big, habanerolike pepper. It delivered a nice subtle chile kick, earthy depth from the greens, and also a good amount of bright orange oil (possibly palm), though in the end it wasn't a heavy dish. House-made ginger juice was "searingly strong" yet delicious, cut only with water and a little sugar. Dairy-based desserts (with oatmeal or pineapple) and several kidney dishes, evidently the Ivorian breakfast of champions, are also served. Further exploration seems warranted.

New Ivoire [East Harlem]
76 E. 119th Street (between Park and Madison avenues), Manhattan
212-410-5982

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