Continental Explorations at Klee

Klee is deep into a comfortable, crowd-pleasing groove these days, and its pizza is just one example of what it’s doing right, says Jim Leff. It’s not exactly pizza, he adds, but a savory flatbread topped with onion and bacon, a take on the Alsatian flammeküche, and just as crave-worthy as the hound-endorsed Naples-inspired pizza at Co. a couple of blocks away.

The menu at this three-year-old Chelsea spot is broadly European with a nod to Austria, Chef Daniel Angerer’s homeland, but with unexpected inventions and contemporary finesse. Angerer’s reworking of macaroni and cheese is a unique, delicious dish of spätzle that might feature black truffle and a pumpernickel crust. From the special Oktoberfest menu, kitsune scored pleasingly light Wiener Schnitzel and moist, flavorful veal meatloaf with mushrooms. “Everything’s done with high-end continental/Austrian fastidiousness,” Jim says, “but it’s got soul. The best of both worlds.”

The wine list is long and interesting, and the cocktails are winning fans, too. Try the margarita with elderflower liqueur or the Südtiroler: sparkling rosé, Campari, and gin.

Klee [Chelsea]
200 Ninth Avenue (between W. 22nd and 23rd streets), Manhattan

Board Link: Klee Brasserie?

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