Not Just Another Taqueria

NoNatto kept driving by North of the Border Mexican Grill, "supposing it to be just another taco joint selling microwaved enchiladas smothered in cheese and salsa." That was a mistake. A visit showed that this little family-run place has a Guatemalan owner who has peppered the menu with Guatemalan, Colombian, and Salvadoran dishes, along with the Mexican standards.

NoNatto stuck to the appetizers and had wonderful tamales, "with a sauce of subtle complexity and a little heat." Pupusas come with a nicely mild curtido, chicken tacos are homey with finely diced chicken, and rellenitos are "a revelation: mashed plantains stuffed with sweetened cinnamon-spiked refried beans and deep-fried to a dark brown, served hot with a container of crema."

Avoid the flautas, which are understuffed. NoNatto sums up: "Not destination dining necessarily, but good honest ethnic fare in a corner of the city that can surely benefit from more culinary diversity."

North of the Border Mexican Grill [Roxbury]
5272 Washington Street, Boston
617-469-2100

Discuss: Surprising delights of North of the Border

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