Underground Barbecue Comes Out of the Closet

Formerly a delivery-only outfit, Sneaky's BBQ is now serving regularly at Rebel, a new gay bar/club in San Francisco, Melanie Wong reports after checking out the soft opening.

Best choice may be that classic bar food, wings. No chance is missed to add flavor to these babies—they're rubbed with spices, smoked, fried, tossed with a jalapeño-habanero chile sauce, and served with blue cheese dressing for dipping. "The smoke penetrated the silky, succulent meat of the wing flats playing well with the dry rub-crusted skin and hot sauce," Melanie says.

Although Sneaky's has been doing catering for a couple of years, they recently changed equipment, which may account for the fact that some of the meats in the early days at Sneaky's were undersmoked and bland, while others were overdone. Kurobuta pork belly is definitely worth trying. "The seasoned crust and richly striated meat were so delectably unctuous and stultifying, I didn’t want to sully ’em with sauce," Melanie says. But the vinegary sauce provides just the right contrast to the rich meat. Unfortunately, some of the belly was inedibly dry and hard.

Moist pulled pork has promise, but was short on smoke when Melanie visited; the signature baby back ribs were not just virtually smoke-free, they were also hard.

Sneaky's grand opening is February 28.

Rebel [Lower Haight]
1760 Market Street, San Francisco
415-863-3516

Discuss: Sneaky’s BBQ Settles Down at Rebel in San Francisco

See more articles
Share this article: