Tasting Tico

Chef Michael Schlow, of Via Matta, Radius, and Alta Strada, now has a fourth prong to his, um, fork: Tico, which bills itself as Nuevo Latino small plates. Spike calls it a mix between Mexican and Spanish, and "Schlow's take on Toro."

Kitamonster gave the tasting menu a try on the restaurant's second night of business, and "everything was excellent." Plate after plate came out: a dreamy fried Manchego cheese with pomegranate-honey dipping sauce, scallop ceviche, pork belly with onion ("so good I had to post to Facebook about it"), tender sirloin with a warm side of beans, kale, and bacon.

Dessert brought a cheese plate (four local varieties), peanut butter mousse, and rich chocolate cake with splashes of butterscotch sauce and something spicy: "I would drink this butterscotch straight if they'd let me."

Right out of the gate the place is packed; Kitamonster says service is on the slow side. The noise level was too much for some folks, but southie went by for a meal on Sunday and found it just fine, and the food well worth a try.

Tico [Back Bay]
222 Berkeley Street, Boston
617-351-0400

Discuss: Tico - did tasting menu with friends last night
Tico = Schlow's take on Toro

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