Among the undersung chow destinations in Korean Flushing is Arirang, where noodle-lovers queue outside the steamed-up windows. The house specialty is kalguksu, handmade wheat noodles in soup.
Last month Arirang opened a second location in Manhattan’s Koreatown, and Lau says it’s the real deal. He describes toothsome, semithick noodles and sujebi (hand-torn scraps of wheat dough), cooked al dente and served in deeply chicken-y, slightly thickened broth. There are also seafood, vegetable, and kimchee variations.
Beyond noodles, plantainsandkimchi singles out a superior haemul pajun (seafood pancake) that avoids “the unfortunate doughy quality of a lot of other pajuns out there.”
137-38 Northern Boulevard, Queens
32 W. 32nd Street (between Broadway and Fifth Avenue), Manhattan