Better Living Through Liver

The worst thing a kitchen can do to calf’s liver is overcook it, cimui observes—“that turns some people off to liver for life.” And that’s why she loves the version at West Branch, the newish Mediterranean American place from Tom Valenti (Ouest). Served with crispy sweetbreads, onion, and bacon, it comes out “tender, moist and perfectly cooked.”

The Red Cat has figured it out, too, turning out great liver au poivre with bacon–Swiss chard pie; “what I loved about it,” adrman says, “was that it was thick cut and cooked medium/medium rare, much like I do it myself at home.”

Liver Venetian style has won fans at Gonzo, where it’s made with pancetta, rosemary, and a bit of brandy, and Le Zie, where 45yearheelfan appreciates its piquant touch of vinegar. Trestle on Tenth serves a Swiss-accented version that comes with rösti potatoes and is flavored with sage.

Others endorse the liver at Blaue Gans, Wallse, Quatorze Bis, Le Petite Auberge (where it’s an occasional special), and Vince & Eddie’s, where JoanN finds it a dependable highlight on an otherwise hit-or-miss menu.

West Branch [Upper West Side]
2178 Broadway (at W. 77th Street), Manhattan
212-777-6764

The Red Cat [Chelsea]
227 10th Avenue (between W. 23rd and 24th streets), Manhattan
212-242-1122

Gonzo [Greenwich Village]
140 W. 13th Street (between Sixth and Seventh avenues), Manhattan
212-645-4606

Le Zie [Chelsea]
172 Seventh Avenue (near W. 20th Street), Manhattan
212-206-8686

Trestle on Tenth [Chelsea]
242 10th Avenue (at W. 24th Street), Manhattan
212-645-5659

Blaue Gans [Tribeca]
139 Duane Street (between W. Broadway and Church Street), Manhattan
212-571-8880

Wallse [West Village]
344 W. 11th Street (at Washington Street), Manhattan
212-352-2300

Quatorze Bis [Upper East Side]
323 E. 79th Street (near Second Avenue), Manhattan
212-535-1414

Le Petite Auberge [Murray Hill]
116 Lexington Avenue (at E. 28th Street), Manhattan
212-689-5003

Vince & Eddie’s [Upper West Side]
70 W. 68th Street (between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West), Manhattan
212-721-0068

Board Link: Best Liver (and onions? w/ bacon?)

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