Sorbet Squeezups Latest Attempt to Healthify Kids

Jolly Llama Sorbet Squeezups

Jolly Llama Sorbet Squeezups

I Paid: $4.99 for four 3-fluid-ounce tubes (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4 stars

Marketing: 5 stars

With bright, bold colors and a minimalist aesthetic, the Jolly Llama company packaging seems to be saying, "This is an ice-cream-style treat that will make you look good to the other Montessori school parents."

Jolly Llama's dairy-free, gluten-free, fat-free Sorbet Squeezups "are made from actual whole fruits, not purees or concentrates. As a result they burst with the refreshing, real taste of sun-ripened fruit while retaining the rich store of nutrients nature intended."

So what are they exactly, if they're not made from purées or concentrates? Hard to describe, but they're a bit like softer fruit leather. You actually have to do some tearing with your teeth. And although they are sweetened (evaporated cane juice), these things taste like fruit, period. The Mango Sorbet had a beautiful mango funk to it. And the Blueberry Sorbet, again, had depth: The earthiness of the blueberries came through clearly, shown off by the Squeezup's dense chewiness. Both had a balanced, clean sweetness that was gentle and retiring, not brash and artificial.

And while the marketing may be a little aggressive, hey, that's its job. Nothing wrong with talking loud if the product backs it up.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow Chowhound on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.

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