Jeremy Fox Crosses Over

Jeremy Fox is sure switching gears—from the vegetable-centric cuisine of Ubuntu to, now, the meat-centric fare at Rotisserie & Wine, Tyler Florence's new waterfront restaurant in downtown Napa. Fox is heading up the kitchen, decked out in overalls and plaid as part of the rustic Southern vibe. It's a great showcase for his talents, says CarrieWas218.

The menu is broken up into Snacks, To Share, Fixins, The Rotisserie, and The Meat Board. As a welcoming treat, everyone seems to get delectable corn sticks, crisp outside and incredibly light inside. Of the Snacks, large gougères ooze a rich and creamy bacon Mornay sauce, and deviled Jidori chicken eggs made with maple, sherry, celery, and candied bacon bits are ultracreamy with just a hint of sweetness.

The Meat Board is a work of art: Fox "layers slivers of radish into flowers and creates a mille-fleur garnish with truffles and slivers of mushrooms," CarrieWas218 says. It's not just about the look—it's a composition of flavors. "Every delicately-placed leaf, perfectly dotted mustard, and stacked and layered vegetable is a part of a whole creating an incomparable platter of the most stunning terrines I have tasted." The focus is on terrines and other potted meats—rich and earthy game bird terrine, punctuated with plenty of porcini mushrooms, with a garnish of truffles and red wine jelly. Duck liver mousse is as light and velvety as whipped cream, accented with fried sage, frizzled leeks, and chunks of pickled beets and raw vegetables. However, the prime rib-eye from the Rotisserie section (described as Beef & Bones) is "very good, but hardly memorable considering everything else the restaurant has to offer."

Plenty of items To Share looked appealing—uni toast with shaved pine mushroom, Sonoma duck confit with cracklin' waffles—and so did the Fixins, including Arbuckle grits draped with lardo; and Hudson Valley broccoli with pine nuts, capers, raisins, and Vella dry Jack cheese.

For dessert, the classic apple pie à la mode is "about as great as it comes," Carrie says, with a perfect crust and slightly crunchy apples, perfectly spiced.

Rotisserie & Wine [Napa]
720 Main Street, Napa
707-254-8500

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