Wolfgang’s, a True American Steakhouse

If you look past the hype and the fame, the new Wolfgang's Steakhouse is just a great classic American steakhouse, says exilekiss.

First thing: This has nothing to do with Wolfgang Puck. The man in charge is Wolfgang Zwiener, former head waiter at New York's beloved Peter Luger. It's classic steakhouse style through and through, from the shrimp cocktails and oysters to the creamed spinach and baked potato.

Their beef is dry aged in their own aging box. "We took a bite from the Tenderloin portion of the Porterhouse and could taste a very intense beefiness I've never had from any other steak in recent memory," says exilekiss. "It was nice in its distinction, but at the same time, I found it a tad too intense in some ways, but ultimately it's personal preference." Even if you're a purist, you should try at least a bite of steak with a bit of Wolfgang's "Old Fashioned Sauce," which alters the steak dramatically.

Their rib-eye is very nice, declares exilekiss, "good marbling, moistness, and a rich beefiness, without the more pungent intensity of the Porterhouse."

The place is classic, and, confesses exilekiss, it bores him a little. Maybe it's Los Angeles. "Maybe I've been spoiled by the utter ridiculousness of melt-in-your-mouth Grade A5 Wagyu Beef I've had at Urasawa and The Steak House, or maybe my palate has changed over the last few years, but I've just grown tired of steaks in general: The monstrous (and very generous) slab of beef becomes tiresome after making my way through 1/3 of the steak, and I can tell it's a wonderfully charred, good piece of beef, but it's nothing world-changing."

But if steak's still your thing, this is a great version, says exilekiss.

Wolfgang's Steakhouse [Beverly Hills]
445 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills

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