Special-Occasion Punjabi at Darbar

Looks like it's a good week for Indian and Pakistani finds: Nab writes lovingly of Darbar Restaurant, located on an industrial stretch of Beacon Street and boasting what Nab calls "Sindhi-Punjabi fare, the kind of cooking I grew up with and now only mostly eat at home or at restaurants in major metro Pakistani communities (Toronto, Chicago, etc.)." So while you'll find familiar dishes on the menu (biryani, korma), you can also order such special-occasion delights as nehari, a rich bone marrow beef shank stew: "I understand you may not want that pool of oil in many of your dishes, but you want it here," along with big, tender hunks of meat in garam-masala marrow gravy.

Brains, a.k.a. maghaz masala, were "creamy, sweet, soft scrambled and spicy." This dish proved to be galangatron's favorite as well. The haleem, a stew of meat (usually mutton or beef), wheat, lentils, and onions, is also wonderful: "One of the better restaurant versions I've had," says Nab. "Much more aggressively spiced (and requested as such), thick & meaty, and they must just have vats of rich bone gravy around, because this was amped up with it no doubt."

On the side, naan is served flaky and hot, perfect for scooping up sauce. If something green appeals after all the meat, order the saag, made of mustard greens with a refreshing bite.

Darbar Restaurant [Brighton]
130 N. Beacon Street, Boston
617-779-8800

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