Plum Power

"Day 1, and Plum is already on the fast track to becoming one of my favorite restaurants," gushes daveena. The "lusty Mediterranean flavors" are balanced by exquisite technique and plating.

Tiny braised artichokes come "dotted with fresh cheese, their natural nuttiness amplified" by a green olive romesco. "The chilled eggplant soup was fantastic as well—lightly curried and creamy, spiked with the bite of preserved lemon, topped with a spoonful of clear tomato gelée." Tender braised fresh beans offer a "lovely, silky" contrast. daveena loved the tender seared squid with black rice porridge and chicken-giblet-spiked farro topped with a slow-cooked farm egg. "These two dishes exemplify the approach toward fusion that I love," she says.

Other hounds, though, felt that Plum hadn't quite hit its stride. bbulkow found hardly any squid in that black rice porridge, and the lardo combined with otherwise tasty potatoes, chanterelles, and arugula had an odd "new car smell."

Former chef Jeremy Fox may no longer be in the house, but there's still plenty for vegetarians to love, says happenstance. Like cauliflower with dandelion salsa, vegetables in vadouvan broth, and for dessert, goat cheesecake with grape sorbet.

Plum [East Bay]
2214 Broadway, Oakland
510-444-7586

Discuss: Plum Review (Oakland)

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