Shipshape Pub Grub at the Commodore

The Commodore plies now-familiar waters for Brooklyn restaurants, a mix of Southern-inflected bar food with locavore leanings and retro mixology. It's a worthy addition to the scene, suggests sam1, who luxuriated in the Adult Cheese, a gooey and "gluttonously delicious" grilled sandwich oozing with pimento- and poblano-spiked cheese. Its richness was nicely balanced by a farm-fresh tomato salad with cheddar. Salads, which change with the seasons, might also include a summery one with tomato and corn, accented with garlic pickle.

Naturally there's fried chicken here; Chef Stephen Tanner is an alumnus of Egg and Pies 'n' Thighs. Commodore's version is moist and tasty with a crisp, perfectly seasoned coating, Bob Martinez says. (sam1 found it oily and underseasoned, though he liked the biscuits that came with it.) Others report a solid hamburger and fries, spicy chicken or catfish sandwiches, and green chile hominy stew with chicken.

From the bar, francesb recommends the bourbon cooler and the Trailways (grapefruit, vodka, mint). And sam1 notes that beers are two-for-one during happy hour; he downed a couple of Anchor Steams for $5, "not a bad way to start."

The Commodore [Williamsburg]
366 Metropolitan Avenue (at Havemeyer Street), Brooklyn
718-218-7632

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