Big Breakfasts and Global Ambitions

After breakfasting on the egg-and-sausage sandwich at M. Wells Diner, you won't need lunch. The house-made Berkshire pork patty—bigger than 75 percent of hamburgers, Jeffsayyes reckons—is topped with scrambled egg, smoked cheddar, tomato, and pickled jalapeño and wedged into a fat English muffin. "It's pretty damn good," promises MikeViscovero, "and the size of it is surprising."

M. Wells, a stop on this summer's CHOW Tour, is a diner with a difference. Chef Hugue Dufour, who cooked at Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, calls his cooking "Québéco-American," a vast and shifting realm that has included a hound-endorsed Cubano sandwich, salt-cod hash, and tortilla Española (potato and onion omelet). While thinking globally, Dufour is shopping locally, bringing in hometown favorites like coffee from Oslo in Brooklyn and frozen custard from Timmy O's in Corona.

He's been adding dishes gradually since opening in June; recent additions include pickled pork tongue and broiled scallops in cheese sauce. Both are good bets to wind up on the dinner menu, once evening service starts. For now, M. Wells serves only breakfast and lunch.

M. Wells Diner [Long Island City]
21-17 49th Avenue (near 21st Street), Long Island City, Queens
718-425-6917

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M. Wells Diner in LIC serves Timmy's Frozen Custard!!

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