West Africa and Beyond at Le Grand Dakar

chewbie's dinner at Le Grand Dakar started with a bang: tasty, beautifully fried black-eyed-pea fritters called accara. Like most of the menu, the dish is West African. Another winning dish was soupa kanja, a seafood-okra gumbo from Guinea. Dibi, the Senegalese roasted lamb dish, was less successful: chewbie found it slightly overcooked.

Chef Pierre Thiam (who recently went mano a mano with Bobby Flay on Iron Chef America) is from Senegal, but his menu include forays into North Africa (Moroccan-style beef skewers), the Caribbean (jerk chicken), and even Asia, as in the killer Thai-style curry sauce that's served with coconut mussels.

NickLyons digs the homey yet inspired cooking and also the live jazz and African music. Service can be leisurely, chewbie advises: "If you're looking for a place with polished service that runs like a well-oiled machine, then this isn't for you."

Le Grand Dakar [Clinton Hill]
285 Grand Avenue (between Clifton Place and Lafayette Avenue), Brooklyn
718-398-8900

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