More Boulangerie Doesn’t Always Mean Better

The Bay Bread group has opened two more Boulangeries–Union Street in Cow Hollow and Columbus Street in North Beach–in addition to their four locations on Pine, Polk, Cole, and Fillmore. These folks make some of the best canneles in town (some of the only, in fact): dark and crusty. Skip the blonder ones, though–go for the dark. Their dense almond croissant comes close to Melanie Wong’s twice-baked ideal. It’s one of the few items for which Bay Bread beats Tartine hands-down.

The bad news is that the new branches don’t measure up. Macaroons at Union and Columbus are held in refrigerated cases–horrors to Mari and others who love the room-temperature macaroons at the Pine and Polk locations. Compared with the Pine location, the Columbus location has a soulless, airy, and unchocolately chocolate chip brioche, and a fakey-tasting caramel-apple rugalach, says cerise. French onion soup at the Union outpost is flavorless, says Meatball. Ouch.

La Boulange at Union [Russian Hill]
1909 Union St., San Francisco

La Boulange at Columbus [North Beach]
543 Columbus Ave., San Francisco

Boulangerie Bay Bread [Fillmore]
2325 Pine St., San Francisco

Boulange de Polk [Polk Gulch]
2310 Polk St., San Francisco

Boulange De Cole Valley [Cole Valley]
1000 Cole St., San Francisco

Boulange de Fillmore [Pacific Heights}
2043 Fillmore St., San Francisco

Board Links: La Boulange on Union Street in SF
Columbus Avenue Boulangerie now open.