Masa Like You’ve Never Tasted

The newly opened El Molino Central features Blue Bottle coffee, but it's the food that's a real eye-opener, says davina. And no surprise—the place is run by the owner of Primavera, and the corn for the masa is soaked and ground in-house. That means a simple memela (like a jumbo sope) is ultra-fresh and delicious, filled with black beans, sweet onions, a gently spicy salsa, cabbage, and cotija. Tamales are good, and you can grab a dozen to go ($18) from the case. There are also thick, hand-patted tortillas for $3.50 a dozen.

The counter workers pull a great espresso, davina says, but on opening day Sam B got a drip coffee that was weak and not that hot.

El Molino Central
11 Central Avenue, Sonoma
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