Paperfish in Beverly Hills may be the newest outpost of Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, but Chef Yianni Koufodontis is already known to some hounds as the former chef of the Greek-Californian restaurant Petros in Manhattan Beach.
At Paperfish, the focus is squarely on fish: oysters on the half shell with pomegranate granita mignonette, marinated and grilled octopus, and of course the namesake snapper en papillote. The restaurant opened for lunch and cocktails around the holidays and recently began serving dinner as well.
The chef will make a whole fish if you request it a day in advance, and it’s fantastic, says trojans, who got a rotisserie loup de mer, or branzino. It’s nicely charred on the outside and very moist. Candied hazelnut salad with blue cheese and apple also gets top marks.
Deconstructed “paella” is absolutely delicious, declares New Trial, and each element—saffron rice, two shrimp, two clams, one mussel, one large scallop, two strips of chicken, and two rectangles of lamb—is perfectly cooked.
As usual, russkar went for the tasting menu, deeming it surprisingly good.
But wasabica was totally underwhelmed by overly salty main dishes, including the short rib ravioli with overcooked scallops, and says the snapper en papillote tasted of ginger and nothing else. Plus, portions are wee.
Appetizers are $10 to $15, mains $18 to $30. Paperfish joins Patina in being the only Patina Group restaurants to charge corkage—a whopping $20.
Paperfish [Beverly Hills]
345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills