Freshly Picked Lardo

Every week with my CSA, there’s the same problem: too many Brussels sprouts, too much kale, not enough unctuous, rosy-hued, dry-cured coppa. OK, fine: There hasn’t been any coppa at all.

Luckily, the San Francisco Chronicle has just announced the arrival of a salumi CSA, the Boccalone Salumi Society. Boccalone is the new cured-meat project of Chris Cosentino, the eco-conscious chef at San Francisco’s Incanto who’s famous for his high regard for the sundry parts of the pig. (Cosentino writes a blog on offal and has held forth for CHOW on the subject. He also recently made Grist’s list of its top 15 Green Chefs.)

Based out of an old Oakland sausage factory, Boccalone is selling to top-tier Bay Area restaurants, including Google’s local-food cafeteria, Cafe 150. (The Chronicle notes, intriguingly, that Cafe 150 recently took 80 pounds of blood sausage.) But for the public, the “tasty salted pig parts,” as Boccalone calls its salumi, will only be sold via CSA subscription. It sounds wonderful and all, but there’s still the central CSA concern: What happens if there’s a bad year for pigs?

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