A Rosé by This Name

As I’ve mentioned before, I’m tasting a lot of rosé these days, and here’s one that particularly interests me: Mulderbosch, from South Africa’s Stellenbosch region. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a flavor quite unlike most rosés’, with its raspberry fruit complicated by the green bell pepper and vegetal qualities—and the tannic backbone—that give away the grape. The good news here, along with the wine’s hint of yerba santa bitterness, is that it makes for a terrific and versatile food wine with more strength and structure than many rosés. The back label boasts that it would pair well with everything from crab cakes to strawberries and cream, but I’m inclined to vote for something stronger and more distinct, like the fresh fava beans I just made, with olive oil, garlic, and rosemary. I used a good, strong olive oil—with a note of bitterness and bite—and rosemary always confers a memory of beef, and yet the Mulderbosch was perfect. Ditto with a good chicory salad—and I wouldn’t say this about most of the pink wine I’m drinking lately. This isn’t the wine to seek if you want that pure, light strawberry quality, and in some ways it’s a lark in the world of rosé, but again and again, I’ve found myself reaching for it at dinnertime, and enjoying it with everything I eat.

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