Le Fandy is flying high. Two years after chef Luke Peter Ong took over from the founding chef, the place has settled into a satisfying groove, turning out elegant, assured French-influenced food. Seafood is especially good. Lobster crepes, garlic-sauteed rock shrimp, and the signature pan-roasted halibut with rosemary glaze (served with portobello confit and caramelized onions) are smart orders. Also recommended: butternut squash soup, seared strip loin, and apple or molten chocolate tarts for dessert. It’s the best and most consistent upper-end restaurant in the area, sums up seal.
Yet some think the place is underappreciated. “The food is wonderful, but I cannot figure out why there is not a line out the door,” muses Angelina. Another fan, foodreview, sees it this way: “As a fellow chef, I’ve come to understand that the chefs who simply turn out exceptional food, without fanfare, without PR people, without calling publications to beg for interviews, often are overlooked. But I suspect chef Ong would have it no other way.”
Le Fandy Restaurant [Monmouth County]
609 River Rd., near Cedar Ave., Fair Haven, NJ