Devin Tavern: All-American Comforts in Tribeca

Hearty American chow and creative cocktails are drawing downtown hounds to Devin Tavern, opened in summer by the owners of nearby steakhouse Dylan Prime. Crowd-pleasers include pan-roasted duck, corn souffle with lobster bisque, a Gruyere burger with pork belly, and grilled Arctic char (with broccoli rabe, white bean puree, and veal reduction). Some dishes are too rich for their own good; nice briny Wellfleet oysters are nearly overpowered by the accompanying lardons and Hollandaise.

Mixology is first-rate. Good bets on the cocktail menu include the pepper basil caipirinha, Raleigh Collins (silver tequila, lemon juice, house-made limoncello), and Blue Tomato (vodka with a blue cheese-stuffed pickled cherry tomato).

Hounds also love the handsome brick-and-beam space. But some find the food too pricey, with most entrees in the mid-$20s and topping out near $40. “For a place that bills itself as a tavern, it’s on the high side,” advises Phil E. “We were extremely happy with our meal, but someone coming in expecting something more casual (the environment is, the food isn’t) might be surprised.”

Devin Tavern [Tribeca]
363 Greenwich St., near Franklin, Manhattan
212-334-7337
Locater

Board Links
Where to go to dinner tonight….anywhere south of 14th
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Devin Tavern–Review (Long)

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