Perla: Rustic Italian in the Village

Hearty pastas, among other things, are grabbing hounds' attention at Perla, the newish Italian restaurant from the people behind Joseph Leonard, Jeffrey's Grocery, and Fedora. Two standouts are garganelli with long-simmered tripe, guanciale, and tomato, and cavatelli with egg, pancetta, pecorino, and black pepper.

Chef Michael Toscano cooked most recently at Manzo, the meat specialist in Eataly, and critters of all kinds are done well here. peter j loves the duck breast and duck leg confit (with cabbage and pancetta). Guinea hen with black trumpet mushrooms is also excellent, adds H Manning. Mushroom and Brussels sprout side dishes are smart orders, too.

Overall, H Manning ranks Perla up there with Babbo, Scarpetta, and Lincoln. But some find it too pricey. loratliff enjoyed what she had, notably tramezzini with foie gras, but "left with the feeling that it wasn't worth [what] I had just paid."

Perla [Greenwich Village]
24 Minetta Lane (between Sixth Avenue and MacDougal Street), Manhattan
212-933-1824

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