A Chinese Rarity Surfaces in Brooklyn

Fei Long Market isn't just for groceries anymore. This Asian supermarket in Sunset Park opened a food court a couple of months ago, and one of its vendors, Top Taste, offers a rare taste of the cuisine of Guilin in southern China. The short menu at Top Taste, which claims to serve the only authentic Guilin chow in New York, spotlights a regional specialty, rice noodles with various meats, DaveCook reports. It's very good, says Barry Strugatz, who tried the noodles with crispy pork and tasty braised beef. Other toppings are beef stew, pig bone, chicken, vegetables, and sausage.

The menu lists the rice noodle dishes as soups, Barry notes, but they may not be what you expect: They're just served with a cup of broth on the side. The food of Guilin—in Guangxi province, bordering Vietnam—tends to be spicier than much of Sunset Park's Chinese clientele can handle, rschwim says, so Top Taste has been turning down the heat. He made a point of asking for true Guilin seasoning and was rewarded with a great, robustly flavored dish.

Among the rest of the dozen or so vendors, an early crowd-pleaser is Shanghai Family Dumpling, which specializes in xiao long bao (steamed soup dumplings). DaveCook (who also blogs about the food court) says they're nicely made and gently priced, at $3.75 for six pork dumplings or $6.75 for six crab-and-pork ones. But Barry, who tried the latter, found them bland. Other stalls include Grand Noodle House for hand-pulled noodles (just "middling," Dave says) and Maine Lobster House for stir-fried lobster with gingery cabbage (a good deal at $9.95, but marred by too much salt and pepper). No reports yet on vendors offering congee, barbecued meats, teriyaki, Vietnamese food, hot pot, and frozen yogurt. Fei Long seems ripe for further hound exploration.

Fei Long Market [Sunset Park]
6301 Eighth Avenue (between 63rd and 64th streets), Brooklyn
718-680-0118

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